Let's Try Something Different

I thought I would try something a bit different. I have a need, and haven't been able to come up with an easy solution. I'll explain more on the need a bit later. What I thought would be interesting and fun, is to start the process, and have my viewers, that's you, assist in the design and build process which I will update in the post as things progress.

So, my need is I want to build a cross cut sled for my table saw. I have a few obstacles to overcome, and build issues due to lack of tools and equipment.

I have been looking all over the web. YouTube and various woodworking sites, and nothing I can find helps people like myself in this situation. For example, most designs require you have a jointer or router. I have neither.


I have taking a liking to the sled by Steve Ramsey over on YouTube. This is one of his older projects, but I like it for it's simplicity. This design still requires the use of a router for the T Track, but I believe I can do this with my table saw.

So, here we go. Let's see if I can generate some interest in this project and get some good feedback and suggestions to make this idea a reality. Add anything you like into the comments at the bottom of this post. If something good and useful is added, I'll add this as pert of the project and update the post.

The Need:

To build a cross cut sled for my Table Saw.
As it is a work-site / portable saw, the table is small when compared to the larger fixed base units. I need to have the largest sled I can without loosing stability. Of course, it must be accurate as far as being set plumb with the tables fence and saw blade. Will need to be made from material I can easily obtain in my area of Thailand.

The Plan:

The Base:

• Might be made from 12mm ply wood.

• Most other projects made in other countries prefer 19mm (3/4") ply as it is a bit stronger, and readily available. Not so in Thailand. For whatever reason, the sizes available here seem to be 12mm and 25mm.

Front Fence:

• Might be made from 2 pieces 12mm ply wood.

• Layup 2 pieces and glue making it 24mm.

Rear Fence:

• Might be made from 2 pieces 12mm ply wood.

• Layup 2 pieces and glue making it 24mm.

Nice Bits:

• T Track

• This is tricky bit that Steve used his router for. I'll try using my table saw to make the dado.

• Stop Block

• This is part of the T Track setup. I think it will be very useful if incorporated.

So, please have a go at posting a comment or two or three on my idea.

I look forward to your input.

Plumbing Tools - Long Reach Tool for Plastic Mount Nut

Plastic Mount Nut Tool

I've been doing a bit of research into the tools required to fit / remove basin or sink faucets.

There are various types of attachment nut and hoses being used these days, not just the standard brass nut.

I've discovered, through some local forums, that these special tools can be difficult to find in Thailand, and if you can, they are expensive for a tool you would only use a few times.

In my research, I found a couple of references to special tools from America that can handle most, but not all, of the fittings used. Again, expensive.

Through our old friend Google and YouTube, I've come up with a few designs that might help out.

So, I think I will need the following types of tools.
1. Something for the standard plastic mount nut that hold the faucet in the basin. Seems there are at least two different style / size that I can see. Maybe more.
2.Something for the standard brass nut. It must have a long reach and be of crows foot or box socket style.
3. Something to attach the metal braided flex pipes used these days.

Here is the first tool.

1. Long Reach Tool for Plastic Mount Nut:

Credit for this one goes to masguapoako for his YouTube video. I have used his basic design, and tried a couple of my own ideas to make it a little more easy to use.

Materials:

50cm length PVC Pipe nominal 1" Blue - 40 baht for 2m off cut from local hardware.
2 x TS Socket nominal 1" Blue - 15 baht each from local 20 baht shop.
4 x small screws - From Screw Box

Total cost = 70 baht

How It Was Done:

1. Cut the PVC pipe to approx. 50cm.
Using a cutting disc on my angle grinder, I cut a slot the full length of the pipe approx. 12mm wide to allow the flex hose to be passed through.

2. Taking one of the TS Sockets, I marked out the location of the 4 slots using a spare plastic mount nut. Extending the marks perpendicular along the outside surface long enough to allow the nut to be fully encased by the pipe when fitted, I then drill 4 holes the diameter of the slots. Using my hacksaw, I cut from the pipe end to the drill holes. Not as easy as I thought to get them equidistant. Bit of filing required. Again using my angle grinder, I cut a similar slot of 12mm the full length of the socket for the hose to slip through.

3. Using the 2nd TS Socket, I filed out the ridge inside smooth to allow the 1" PVC pipe to slide through without restriction. This was done with a rough half-round file.

4. The removal of the material in pipe and sockets for the hose slots, allows to pipe to twist and collapse when exerting force to tighten or loosen the mounting nut. I have tried to over come this by using a couple of small screws in each socket to hold them in place and make the tube more rigid. The mounting nut socket at the end of the pipe, and the other approx. in the middle of the pipe. The screws in the top socket also prevent it turning when using the tool.

Testing and use of the tool was done recently during a faucet change in the kitchen.
The tool worked a treat. Looks a bit rough, but does the trick.

I'll be making a few minor alterations. I'll manufacture another pipe without he slot for the hose. This feature is not always needed, and the rigidity of the pipe will make it's operation easier. Probably the same for the top socket. Also another socket of different dimensions will be need for the varying sizes of mount nuts.

I'll be designing and building the other tools mentioned here. Come back and check them out

Ratings
Ease Of Build
Usability
Value
Total

Links:

uPCV Pipe (Thailand)
Thai & English available
This site has a good table with dimensions and specs.
Interesting to note that measurements printed on pipe outer surface are nominal measurements. ie. a 1" dia pipe is actually lager, approx 1 11/16".

Stanley STDH7213V Impact Drill Set - 13mm

Out of the Box:

The set came in a hard plastic case with all components held into their various locations. The quality of the case was as expected from a Stanley product, OK, but not great. Some of the components failed to be held securely in position when opening or closing.

Some versions of this kit come with a tape measure. This was not supplied, and didn't seem to have any location in case for one.

List of Components:

STDH7213V 13mm 720W Percussion Drill Kit
Components
1 x STDH7213 13mm Impact Drill	(incl Chuck & Chuck Key)
4 x Wood Drill Bits	4 / 5 / 6 / 8 mm
5 x Masonry Drill Bits	4 / 5 / 6 / 8 / 10 mm
4 x Metal Drill Bits	2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 mm
5 x Philips Driver Bits	#0 / #1 / #2 / #2 / #3
4 x Slot Driver Bits	#3 / #4 / #5 / #6
1 x Square Driver Bits	AD
7 x Sockets	4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 mm
1 x Pliers
1 x Box Cutter
1 x Driver Handle - Magnetic
1 x Driver Extension - Magnetic
1 x Small Claw Hammer
1 x Spirit Level - Magnetic
1 x Drill Side Handle
1 x Drill Depth Guide

Table Lazy Gekko Graphics

The Manual and Assembly:

No assembly required. Can be used straight from the box.

The manual supplied was the usual thing recycled paper black & white affair. English and Thai supported. Mostly safety information.

Digital Version. English only, is available at manuaslib.com.

Operation:

As as expected.

I drilled several holes through tile and concrete to hang something in the bathroom. I used a not supplied tile drill first without hammer and the drill operated smoothly with no strange noises etc.

When using the supplied masonry drill to drill out holes for the wall plugs, again, all went well.

Summary:

I actually have 2 of these kits. I bought one some time ago and left it with family to carry out some work for me up country. Most of the contents of the kit were misplaced, so I bought another to use myself. Lesson to be learned, don't lend tools!

The drill itself seems quite robust and up to the job of normal handy man type tasks. I'm sure, if looked after and used properly, I will get years of service.

The other components are typical quality that can be used for their intent, but how long they might last will be seen over the years.

Issues:

None at this time.

Specifications:

STDH7213 13mm 720W Percussion Drill
SPECIFICATION
VOLTAGE	720 W
CHUCK CAPACITY	1.5 – 13 MM
NO. LOAD SPEED	0-3.000 RPM
SWITCH	2 FINGER VARIABLE SPEED
REVERSE	YES
MAX DRILLING CAPACITY
METAL	13 MM
WOOD	32 MM
MASONRY	16 MM
SPEED DIAL	YES
CHUCK	KEYED
REVERSE MODE	YES
WEIGHT	2.4 KG

 Table courtesy of Stanley Power Tool Blogspot.

Links:

Stanley Website (Thai)

Stanley Power Tool Blogspot (English)

Price:

2,621 baht

Where:

Hardware House in Rayong District GPS 12.833066 101.126942

When:

May 2017

Fengsen XK-1 Pocket Hole Jig

Out of the Box:

The jig came in a hard cardboard box, not the advertised plastic case. Foam fitted, it held the jig and other bits and pieces safe and sound. All advertised components accounted for with nil defects.

List of Components:

• The jig with depth slide. The drill sleeves were already installed with grub screws.
• Two slide retention thumb screws.
• Drill with stepped pilot.
• Drill collar with grub screw.
• Long Phillips driver bit.

Drill, Collar, Allen Key & Phillips Bit

The blue anodized surfacing looks nice and sturdy. The white depth scale is etched, not painted. This scale is in metric.

The Manual and Assembly:

No manual or instruction sheet supplied.

Operation:

As no instructions provided, and not an official Kreg unit, I had to resort to old fashion trial and error on a piece of scrap.
Using adjustable depth scale, I set this to the thickness of the material. In my case,12mm. The major obstacle was what length to set the collar on the step drill. I couldn't trust the measurements used

with the Kreg system, because the jig itself could be a different length or the drill sleeves set differently. I tried to research on the internet, but couldn't find anything definite.
With the drill position through the guide, I eye-balled it so the pilot drill end was about 2mm shy of poking out of the hole. Due to the angle it passes through the jig, it was just an estimate. Anyway, once the collar was tightened at that position, I drilled a trial pocket hole in my scrap of wood. It seems my eyes are still pretty good. It was perfect. So, silly me forgot to measure the distance. Lost forever. Oh well.
I used Kreg 1 inch screws for my test. These are the genuine article. I finally managed to find a supplier. Hardware House in Rayong District GPS 12.833066 101.126942 had them. The prices not bad either. Depending on length, about 120 baht per box of 100 screws. This meant buying the genuine Kreg driver as well. Bought this the same place for about 115 baht.

Genuine Kreg Screw Drivers.

I will re-do my experiment and post my findings with a cheat sheet. Once I work out how, I will make it available as a download to those who would like a copy.

*** Update: ***

I found this article that had been sent to my email inbox from WOOD Magazine. Some good information on Pocket Hole Joinery.

Pocket-hole Pointers

Summary:

All in all, a good unit.
Operation and use made a clean hole and the joints strong as any pocket holes.
Price was a factor in the purchase of this particular unit. Reasonable and favorable when compared to Kreg units with similar features.
I believe with a little thinking and elbow grease, it could easily be upgraded with wood holding capabilities. I'll be researching more on this. Keep checking my blog for updates.

Issues:

Instructions would have been nice. Would have prevent a bit of head scratching and trial and error.
When dropped on hard surface, the depth slide guides bent. The reason I bought this unit rather than plastic, was the perception it would be stronger.

Specifications:

Brand : FENGSEN
Type : XK-1
Material: Aluminum Alloy 606
Surface Treatment: anodize oxidation (non-painting)
Body : Blue
Handle : Red
Drill sleeve/drill bushing: the inner Diam. 9.5MM (die steel nitriding treatment)
Made in China

Price: 

1125 baht

Where:

Lazada

When:

May 2017

Stanley STST1825 1600W Table Saw

Stanley Table Saw.

*** Please check out the update below for some safety issue with the miter gauge.***

After a bit of the usual research and searching around, I decided on the Stanley Table Saw. As this particular unit seems to be only sold in Asia, finding readable information was limited. Here is a bit of a review of my new purchase.

Out of the Box:

The unpacking went well, but the assembly didn't go as smooth as one would like.

No parts missing, but the Mitre Gauge Slide was slightly bent. A little brute force, and all is well.

The Manual and Assembly:

The supplied manual was lacking in a quite a few areas. English and Thai languages are supported.

When attempting to assemble the stand, the instructions didn't line up with reality. It talks about parts "1" and "2" etc. Actually, the stands parts were stamped with "A" and "B", and these didn't seem to line up with the "1" and "2".

Another major shortcoming are the photos are way too small and extremely poor quality black and white shots. The text refers you to these photos during the assembly process, and it is next to impossible to see what items they are referring to.

More things to exasperate the assembly. When fitting the Anti-Kickback Pawls, the manual also states that item it should be inserted into slot 1 on the Splitter.  There are 3 slots on the Splitter, and NO markings to be found as to which is which. The Blade Guard was installation was just as vague. This was confusing to say the least.

A bit of head scratching, trial and error, it all went together.

I added some spring washers to the stand attachment bolts to help alleviate issues with the normal saw's vibrations.

A quick check of the blades raise, lower and tilt functions, proved all seemed well.

So, let's have a look at it.

It comes with a stand.

Operation:

After checking the blade was firmly attached, which it was, I switched it on. The noise level wasn't too loud. I suppose hearing protection should be worn, but I didn't feel it necessary.

The on / off button is a bit too small for my liking. Something larger would allow for quick stops without having to search around under the table top.

Summary:

I was happy the unit came with a 60 tooth blade. I thought I would be up for a replacement.

It operated as a mid price range table saw would. You must be ready to accept some of it's shortcomings as you get what you pay for.

Check the "Issues" section below for any problems found. This area could be updated as I use the tool more.

Issues:

The Anti-Kickback Pawls score the surface of the wood as it passes through.

The Blade cannot be raised to full height with the Blade Guard fitted.


During the first use, one of the plastic thumb screws hold the extension support cracked and came away from the screw.

Update:

During my latest project, I wanted to use the supplied miter gauge. I hadn't even tried it during the unpacking or review process. My bad.

Anyway, when placing it in the tables slot, I found the side to side movement was excessive. I tried to overcome this by pushing it firmly down into the slot. This helped a bit.

When I tried to cross cut a piece of pine, the saw blade jammed due to the side movement, and tried to throw the wood back towards me. Luckily my hand were far from the blade at the time. Just a scare.

Have a look at the photos....

Up	Down
Side	Side
Side	Side

Specifications:

STST1825 1600W Table Saw

SPECIFICATION
POWER	1,800W
NO LOAD SPEED	4,800 RPM
BLADE SIZE	254MM
MAX CUTTING CAPACITY
AT 45°	56MM
AT 90°	76MM
BLADE BEVEL RANGE	0 -45°
WEIGHT	30.55KG

Links:

Stanley Power Tool Blogspot (English)

Price:

7,800 Baht

Where:

Mega Home

When:

May 2017