DIY Gripper

I've been working on my large project between rain and family needs. I thought it would be nice to post something I've been able to fit in between these other commitments to show I'm still here.

Purpose:

I think most of you will have heard of the GRR-Riper, or something similar. It's main purpose in life is to safely help push a plank of wood through some type of table saw or router, while maintaining constant pressure to the work peace.

With a little inspiration from the internet, I have come up with this way to achieve the same ends without the super high price tag. Have a look on Amazon, and if you could find someone to ship to Thailand, it would cost you an arm and leg, maybe two legs.

Preparation:

While strolling around the super market, keep an eye out for the generic brand bathroom floor scrubber. Don't go for the 3M brand one, you can do it cheaper. Pick it up, and put in shopping trolley. Pay for it, and take home.

The Build:

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Remove packaging.

Remove scourer pad from handle. You might find that you are left with quite a bit left behind with the glue. I used a box cutter to clean the area, but I think a sharp chisel would be have been better and easier.

Find a piece of scrap wood that is a bit larger than the base of the handle around all edges. This will be the sacrificial material and give a safety margin. I used something approx 18mm thick.

Using hot glue, attach wood to handle. Again using hot glue. attach the non slip sponge to the underside of the wood.

Let it all dry and give it a go.

Material List:

Materials and Price List
QTY	Size	Description	Price
1	n/a	Bathroom Floor Scrubber (from Tops Supermarket.)	12 baht
1	n/a	Foam Non-slip Matt (from 20 baht shop.)	20 baht
1	9 x 16cm	Scrap Wood	free

Tool List:

Tool List
Box Cutter (Chisel would be better.)	Saw & Miter Box
Hot Glue Gun

Cost:

The exorbitant cost of 22 baht.

Didn't break the bank and will be very useful.

Summary:

I haven't had the opportunity to use it yet. When I do, I'll update this blog with my findings.

Let's Try Something Different

I thought I would try something a bit different. I have a need, and haven't been able to come up with an easy solution. I'll explain more on the need a bit later. What I thought would be interesting and fun, is to start the process, and have my viewers, that's you, assist in the design and build process which I will update in the post as things progress.

So, my need is I want to build a cross cut sled for my table saw. I have a few obstacles to overcome, and build issues due to lack of tools and equipment.

I have been looking all over the web. YouTube and various woodworking sites, and nothing I can find helps people like myself in this situation. For example, most designs require you have a jointer or router. I have neither.


I have taking a liking to the sled by Steve Ramsey over on YouTube. This is one of his older projects, but I like it for it's simplicity. This design still requires the use of a router for the T Track, but I believe I can do this with my table saw.

So, here we go. Let's see if I can generate some interest in this project and get some good feedback and suggestions to make this idea a reality. Add anything you like into the comments at the bottom of this post. If something good and useful is added, I'll add this as pert of the project and update the post.

The Need:

To build a cross cut sled for my Table Saw.
As it is a work-site / portable saw, the table is small when compared to the larger fixed base units. I need to have the largest sled I can without loosing stability. Of course, it must be accurate as far as being set plumb with the tables fence and saw blade. Will need to be made from material I can easily obtain in my area of Thailand.

The Plan:

The Base:

• Might be made from 12mm ply wood.

• Most other projects made in other countries prefer 19mm (3/4") ply as it is a bit stronger, and readily available. Not so in Thailand. For whatever reason, the sizes available here seem to be 12mm and 25mm.

Front Fence:

• Might be made from 2 pieces 12mm ply wood.

• Layup 2 pieces and glue making it 24mm.

Rear Fence:

• Might be made from 2 pieces 12mm ply wood.

• Layup 2 pieces and glue making it 24mm.

Nice Bits:

• T Track

• This is tricky bit that Steve used his router for. I'll try using my table saw to make the dado.

• Stop Block

• This is part of the T Track setup. I think it will be very useful if incorporated.

So, please have a go at posting a comment or two or three on my idea.

I look forward to your input.

Dog Fence

SketchUp of my Dog Fence

The Need:

You may have read about my two old dogs. Well, little Cha Cha and developed a heart condition cough. More like a dying goose. It goes on day and night, and it's frequency is dependent of the ambient conditions such as temperature and humidity.

Normally, both dogs will sleep in either the kids bedroom, or our bedroom. Well, they are part of the family, so don't say "oooeeee yucky yuck". With Cha Cha's worsening honk, it has become necessary to move her out of the bedrooms for the sack of a good nights sleep. Sorry, but poor Cindy must go too. Not fair you know.

So, the NEED is to construct some type of fence to keep them locked away in the kitchen at bed time.

The above SketchUp drawing is what I intend to make for this project.

Materials and Price List
QTY	Size	Description	Price
1	120cm x 60cm	Wire Fence (2nd Hand)	Free
4	120cm	1" x 4" Recycled Pine (these sizes were very approximate)	108B
18	1.5"	Screws	Minimal
5	5/16" x 3/4" long	Bolts	Minimal
5	5/16"	Nuts	Minimal
10	5/16"	Washers	Minimal

This is the recycled pine. Various widths and lengths.

Tools Required:

Table Saw. 

Miter Gauge. (Or Cross-cut Sled)

Cordless Drill.

Drill Bits.

Counter Sink Bits.

Square. (I used a medium framing square)

Tape Measure.

Pencil.

Clamps.

The Build:

The build started with trying to achieve some type of true angles and flat surfaces on the recycled wood. As you can see from the photos, there were a few knots, splits and damage that I didn't want in my finished job.

Knots

Damage

Using the table saw (because I don't have a jointer), I ripped along one length of each plank ensuring only to remove the smallest amount. From this side I measured to obtain the widest plank size I could, but remove the damage and knots

I was able to finish with 2 lengths 3" wide (for the vertical members) and 2 lengths 3 1/4" wide (for the horizontal members). Not bad going. These would make the base.

The Rabbet

Wanting to get a better bonding surface for the glue, I cut out a small rabbet on the upper face of the horizontal members along one edge. About the thickness of the saw blade.  (Photo right)

Using some 1 1/2" wood screws I had in my screw box, I glued and screwed the vertical member to the horizontal one. I drilled the pilots holes with counter sinking to prevent splitting of the cheap wood.

Utilizing some G Clamps to hold it together while doing so. Not the best, or correct tool for the job, but it's all I have at present. Damage to the finished job was negligible. (Photo below left)

I then needed to drill the bolt holes that would go through both vertical pieces of the base with the wire fence pressed firmly between them.

To ensure all bolt holes were aligned, I temporarily stood the wire fence between the base, and mark the positions of the bolt holes so they would go through the wire without hitting it. I estimated that five would be sufficient.

Removing the wire, I then clamps both feet of the base together and drilled the holes.


The next step was to put it all together.
Putting the wire in place and bolted them together using the bolts I had on hand. A bit over kill, but didn't want to make a trip to the shop.

One thin I forgot to do before assembly, was to cut the 45 degree pieces off from the lower members of the base. These are needed to give some clearance with the walls etc at the location the fence would be used.

Didn't matter too much. My trusty hand saw did the trick in no time. (Photo above right)

A quick sanding to remove splinters and there we have it.

Summary:

I am reasonably happy with build. As it is only temporary fix until we move into our new place, a quick and dirty, cheap, cheap job is all that was required.

With the use of recycled material I was always going to have a so-so end result. Bowed, twisted and splitting wood etc.

A few things I discovered during the build:

1.  The Miter Gauge that came with the table saw is CRAP. Worse than useless, very, very dangerous. Check my review of this table saw. I will be updating it as appropriate.
2. Need proper wood clamps, and lots of them. Added to my shopping list.

So you tell me what you think.
Before and after shots..... 

 

Plumbing Tools - Long Reach Tool for Plastic Mount Nut

Plastic Mount Nut Tool

I've been doing a bit of research into the tools required to fit / remove basin or sink faucets.

There are various types of attachment nut and hoses being used these days, not just the standard brass nut.

I've discovered, through some local forums, that these special tools can be difficult to find in Thailand, and if you can, they are expensive for a tool you would only use a few times.

In my research, I found a couple of references to special tools from America that can handle most, but not all, of the fittings used. Again, expensive.

Through our old friend Google and YouTube, I've come up with a few designs that might help out.

So, I think I will need the following types of tools.
1. Something for the standard plastic mount nut that hold the faucet in the basin. Seems there are at least two different style / size that I can see. Maybe more.
2.Something for the standard brass nut. It must have a long reach and be of crows foot or box socket style.
3. Something to attach the metal braided flex pipes used these days.

Here is the first tool.

1. Long Reach Tool for Plastic Mount Nut:

Credit for this one goes to masguapoako for his YouTube video. I have used his basic design, and tried a couple of my own ideas to make it a little more easy to use.

Materials:

50cm length PVC Pipe nominal 1" Blue - 40 baht for 2m off cut from local hardware.
2 x TS Socket nominal 1" Blue - 15 baht each from local 20 baht shop.
4 x small screws - From Screw Box

Total cost = 70 baht

How It Was Done:

1. Cut the PVC pipe to approx. 50cm.
Using a cutting disc on my angle grinder, I cut a slot the full length of the pipe approx. 12mm wide to allow the flex hose to be passed through.

2. Taking one of the TS Sockets, I marked out the location of the 4 slots using a spare plastic mount nut. Extending the marks perpendicular along the outside surface long enough to allow the nut to be fully encased by the pipe when fitted, I then drill 4 holes the diameter of the slots. Using my hacksaw, I cut from the pipe end to the drill holes. Not as easy as I thought to get them equidistant. Bit of filing required. Again using my angle grinder, I cut a similar slot of 12mm the full length of the socket for the hose to slip through.

3. Using the 2nd TS Socket, I filed out the ridge inside smooth to allow the 1" PVC pipe to slide through without restriction. This was done with a rough half-round file.

4. The removal of the material in pipe and sockets for the hose slots, allows to pipe to twist and collapse when exerting force to tighten or loosen the mounting nut. I have tried to over come this by using a couple of small screws in each socket to hold them in place and make the tube more rigid. The mounting nut socket at the end of the pipe, and the other approx. in the middle of the pipe. The screws in the top socket also prevent it turning when using the tool.

Testing and use of the tool was done recently during a faucet change in the kitchen.
The tool worked a treat. Looks a bit rough, but does the trick.

I'll be making a few minor alterations. I'll manufacture another pipe without he slot for the hose. This feature is not always needed, and the rigidity of the pipe will make it's operation easier. Probably the same for the top socket. Also another socket of different dimensions will be need for the varying sizes of mount nuts.

I'll be designing and building the other tools mentioned here. Come back and check them out

Ratings
Ease Of Build
Usability
Value
Total

Links:

uPCV Pipe (Thailand)
Thai & English available
This site has a good table with dimensions and specs.
Interesting to note that measurements printed on pipe outer surface are nominal measurements. ie. a 1" dia pipe is actually lager, approx 1 11/16".

Hi All - My First Post

Hi all,

Welcome to my first post.

Let's keep things simple to get things started. I like things to be simple.

If you have read my "About" page, you will have a little information about me. Today, I will go into things a bit more regarding what workshop, tooling and space I have.

There is also a "Tools" page listing all my tools. These I could have brought from Australia, or bought here in Thailand. I'll try and do small reviews with pertinent information and prices etc.

So, first up, my workshop....

It doesn't exist.

Let me explain.

At present we are renting a house in Ban Chang, Rayong. A nice little place, but there isn't any type of garage, shed or spare room to take control of and make it mine.

What I do have is a small area at the back of the house, and a covered car parking area to the side. No secure lock away areas, so all tools are up for grabs to anyone that has the inclination.

My work bench!

Carport Area.

As you can imagine, a rented place can restrict what is possible to do as far as building or renovating the existing spaces you have available. You don't want to make anything permanent, or cost a lot of cash that you cannot get back. With this in mind, I went about planning for things that are mobile (think wheels) and can be relocated easily.

Also, I have a problem with the lady next door. Who doesn't? She has a issue with noise. Even if there isn't any. She carries on about the possibility of noise. She will come out and chatter away in Thai, huff and puff, then run away back inside her house. In the name of keeping in the good books, she has forced me to work in a small area out back. Dirt, weed covered floor, no cover from rain or sun, and right on the outside wall of the kids bedroom.

Not ideal at all!

Anyway, with these obstacles, and many other in play, I'll attempt to set up my "workshop", and build some interesting stuff along the way.

First Project:

Today is the big day to try out my new table saw. I assembled it a few days ago, and today I finally have the chance to give it a go. You can read about the table itself here. It will also be on the "My Tools" page.

I need to make a cover for the gas stove in the kitchen. It hasn't worked since we moved in, and it take precious space in our limit kitchen. My thoughts are to build a box that sits over the top and gives back some of that wasted area.
 

Before.

Cheap Quality Ply

I had previously purchased a sheet of cheap 12mm ply from a local dealer. And when I say cheap, I mean cheap quality!  It was just for a back board for my daughter University Assignment. No highly dress piece of exotic timber required there. Anyway, I had this, so why not use it.

I had tried on an earlier occasion to cut this for today's project using an old jigsaw. Bad move. No one edge square.

So I pulled out the new table table saw, and let's go.

With the sheet all measured, I took my first cut. It wasn't much better than the jigsaw attempt. Have I bought a lemon was first thing to mind.

Checking the saw, I found I hadn't tightened the extension table hand screws. Dopy! This allowed the fence to move as pressure was applied during the cut. Once I had that resolved, remeasure the fence, locked it down, great cut considering the wood quality.

Yeah, my first successful cut on my new table saw.

I won't go into the simple details of how I finished cutting and assembly of the project. A few photos will give you the idea. It was simple, just to try and make something with what I had.

After

It also gave me a chance to use my Pocket Hole Jig. First time. You will find a review here.

I'm please with the final job. Not great mind you, but a good beginning.

Until next time.